Better not to cut back spring bloomers
It is the vital wild species such as Clematis alpina or Clematis montana that do not necessarily require pruning. If you choose the wrong time, you will, in the worst case, rob the magnificent clematis of this year's abundance of flowers. Early-flowering clematis plant their buds in the previous year. How to handle the cut correctly if necessary:
- Do not cut back tendrils of spring-flowering clematis that are too long until they have blossomed
- Otherwise just clean off withered flowers and seed heads that have formed
- A rejuvenation cut every 4-5 years prevents aging
- Cut off withered clematis flowers or not?
- What to do if the clematis does not bloom - Causes and tips
- How high does the clematis grow? - Clematis growth overview
A light summer cut is recommended here
Twice-blooming hybrids, like the majestic clematis 'The President', welcome a light pruning after the first bloom. To do this, cut off all withered flowers including the pair of leaves underneath in June. The clematis thanks you with another flower pile after 6-8 weeks.
Summer bloomers require courageous pruning
They bloom continuously from June until well into autumn and develop an imposing habit. The mighty summer bloomers among the clematis species produce long tendrils anew every year, on which they bloom lavishly. In order for Clematis viticella and its conspecifics to perform this miracle, pruning is crucial. That is how it goes:
- Cut late-blooming clematis every autumn
- Shorten the entire clematis in November / December to 20-30 centimeters
- Carefully cut off all dead wood at the base
Anyone who renounces the radical pruning of these clematis will sooner or later be confronted with an aging clematis. Since light and air can no longer get into the interior of the climbing plant, the shoots bald to become sad sticks.
Tips & Tricks
With a freshly planted clematis there is no question of whether it should be pruned or not. A top cut in November or December of the year of planting is essential here. To do this, cut all of the tendrils back to 20 or 30 centimeters. The result is a powerful budding, densely branching climber for the next year.