One sheet ∗ The 10 best care tips

Origin and Distribution

Spathiphyllum is not a single species, but a genus of plants with around 50 different species within the Araceae family. Most of these single-leaf variants have their home in the tropical regions of South America, many of which come from Colombia and have not yet been scientifically described. In its natural environment, the single leaf thrives in the shade of the large jungle trees.

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We cultivate various of the 50 or so species of the single leaf as ornamental or indoor plants, with the white flowering Spathiphyllum floribundum and Spathiphyllum patinii as well as the species Spathiphyllum wallisii with the rapidly greening petals being of importance. There are also a number of special hybrids. The plant, which comes from tropical climes, is not suitable for keeping in the garden, but can be placed in a shady spot on the balcony or terrace in the warm summer months.

Appearance and stature

All Spathiphyllum species are herbaceous and clumpy plants that grow between 30 to 120 centimeters high. The species is persistent and, with good care, can live for many years to even decades and during this time it can grow to be an impressive size - also in terms of size! - to reach. A strong rhizome develops over the years. The single leaf has a rhizome that develops just below the substrate surface and can partly also be seen on the surface. The leaves sprout directly from the rhizome. The species does not have the milky sap that is typical for many arum plants.

leaves

The most striking thing about the single leaf is probably its large, shiny green and metallic shimmering leaves. These are up to 25 centimeters long and have long stems. They have an elliptical to elongated shape with a clearly defined, triangular central rib. Spathiphyllum also owes its name to its attractive foliage: the Greek word “spatha” denotes spoon-shaped tools such as a spatula or spade, a rudder blade or a sword, while the second part of the botanical name, also the Greek phýllon, simply “ Leaf ”means. In fact, the genus belongs to the botanical order of the frog-spoon-like (Alismatales).

However, the large leaves can do more than just look beautiful: The single leaf is an excellent room air cleaner and filters out potentially toxic components such as formaldehyde, benzene, ammonia and others. For this reason, it is recommended that Spathiphyllum be placed in bedrooms.

Blossoms and flowering period

As a rule, between March and September, the single leaf forms long-stalked, yellowish flower cobs, which are enclosed by a white to greenish colored bract. In winter, however, no new flowers usually develop. Some types and varieties also give off a slight scent of vanilla. The flowers persist for several weeks, but change their color from bright white to greenish over time.

Spathiphyllum doesn't bloom, what to do?

If the leaf does not want to bloom, there are several possible causes. Often the location is too dark and / or the wrong watering or fertilizing behavior is behind it. Although the species thrives very well in the shade, it needs light to develop flowers - even if it does not have direct sunlight. In addition, you should fertilize the heavily consuming plant regularly and not pour cold water directly from the tap.

If the best care does not help - which can often be the case with older specimens - the following measure helps: Place the leaf in a cool place over the winter months for a few months, for example in the unheated or little heated bedroom, stop fertilizing and just water little. After at least eight weeks, water the plant thoroughly and fertilize it vigorously with a good flowering plant fertilizer. Then it should sprout numerous new flowers.

fruit

As a rule, Spathiphyllum does not produce fruits in indoor cultivation due to the lack of pollination. After flowering, green berries that contain up to eight tiny seeds develop in their natural habitat.

Toxicity

The leaf is poisonous for both humans and animals and should therefore not be placed in households with small children and / or pets (especially cats, dogs, small rodents and birds) or should only be placed out of their reach. A possible poisoning with Spathiphyllum expresses itself among other things by an increased salivation over swallowing difficulties up to nausea, vomiting and diarrhea.

Furthermore, Spathiphyllum is considered to be allergenic, with the flowers and pollen in particular having a corresponding potential.

Which location is suitable?

As in its natural location in the tropical rainforest, the single leaf thrives best in a light, partially shaded place without direct sunlight, with high humidity and temperatures between 18 and 25 ° C. Shady places, for example at a north window, are also well suited. However, the plant forms many dark green leaves here, but hardly any flowers. In locations that are too sunny, on the other hand, there is a risk of sunburn, which is primarily manifested by damage to the leaf edge. Spathiphyllum is particularly sensitive to the sun during the flowering period. The plants feel most comfortable in a bright bathroom due to the permanently higher humidity.

However, it must not be cooler than around 15 ° C, even in winter.

Substrate

Use high-quality, completely normal potting soil as a substrate - if possible based on compost and without cheap peat - and mix in expanded clay (€ 17.50 at Amazon *) or clay granules for better permeability. Alternatively, you can mix the potting soil yourself as compost soil, leaf soil and sand - each in equal parts. Make sure that the basic materials are free from pathogens such as fungi and do not contain any germinable weed seeds. For this reason, disinfect the mixed substrate in the oven or microwave.

Planting and repotting

The single leaf does not need a large plant pot, but should be repotted in a larger container every year because of its rapid growth. However, since a certain height, which varies depending on the type and variety, is the end of it, the last plant pot should not be larger than about 20 centimeters in diameter. When the plant is fully grown, you only need to replace the used substrate with fresh one every two to three years. But whether when planting or repotting, good drainage in the planter is important in any case. This definitely needs a drain through which excess irrigation water can flow off unhindered. Cover the drain hole on the bottom of the pot with larger potsherds etc. to prevent silting up and thus clogging.

Hydroponics

You create perfect conditions for the single leaf if you keep it in hydroponics. The plant is very suitable for this type of houseplant culture, especially since you do not have to worry about regular watering and fertilizing. Prefer special pots with a water level indicator and only use fertilizers suitable for hydroponics. These have to be composed and processed differently than conventional fertilizers for plants kept in soil.

Pour single leaf

As a typical rainforest plant, the single leaf needs a lot of moisture, but it must never be left permanently wet. Waterlogging inevitably leads to root rot and thus to the death of the houseplant. Although “wet feet” do not hurt for a short time, you should always remove excess irrigation water from the planter or saucer as soon as possible. Keep the single leaf evenly moist, always watering again when the substrate surface is already slightly dry. In the winter months, Spathiphyllum usually needs less water, provided it is a little cooler and not necessarily directly on or above a heater.

Also, especially during the winter months, you should pay attention to high humidity and regularly spray the single leaf all around with an atomizer. The plant also likes an occasional hand-warm shower.

Fertilize one leaf properly

Since Spathiphyllum, like almost all rainforest plants, is one of the heavy consumers, you should provide them with a high-quality fertilizer for flowering plants between March and October. According to the instructions on the pack, fertilization takes place about every two to four weeks. Small specimens have to be fertilized less often than larger ones, as these naturally have less nutritional requirements. Make sure that the fertilizer contains little nitrogen, but instead is composed of phosphorus. This promotes the development of flowers, while nitrogen primarily drives the shoot and leaf growth. Always fertilize on moist substrate and watch out for signs of possible overfertilization.

Incidentally, the single leaf can also be fertilized very well with simple coffee grounds, although this is not sufficient as a permanent sole fertilizer.

Cut single sheet correctly

Regular pruning is neither necessary nor advisable for the single leaf. You can only cut off faded and dried-up shoots directly above the substrate.

Propagate single leaf

In addition, you do not need to cut back a single leaf that has become too large in order to reduce the size of the plant. Instead, you can easily split such a copy and get one or even several offshoots at the same time. And that's how it works:

Repot the single leaf, remove soil from the roots
Select separation points
preferably cut off runners
every single part of the root should have at least one shoot
Separate the rhizome at the designated places using a sharp knife
Plant the individual plants in their own pots

While dividing works quite reliably, cuttings are next to impossible with a single leaf. However, you can still use seeds - some of which are commercially available - to grow new plants. However, it is difficult for the layperson to get Spathiphyllum to germinate and then to grow - this project requires a lot of patience and good botanical knowledge.

Diseases and pests

The single leaf is very robust and rarely gets sick. Signs of illness such as leaves that are discolored brown or yellow are mostly due to incorrect care and should be treated accordingly. In terms of pests, woolly aphids or aphids can occasionally be found on Spathiphyllum, as well as spider mites (“red spiders”) if they are kept too dry. You can easily get rid of these little animals with an occasional warm shower or the more frequent use of an atomizer.

Yellow leaves

Yellow leaves on the single leaf can have various causes:

Pest infestation
Nutritional deficiency
Waterlogging

In particular, if the leaves are not only turning yellow but are still hanging, you are most likely keeping the plant far too wet and its roots have already started to rot. Immediately pot the affected leaf, cut away the diseased parts of the plant (including the rotten roots) and put it in a new planter and in fresh substrate. In the future, water the plant less and only after the finger test.

If, on the other hand, the yellow leaves appear for no apparent reason, the spider mites, which cannot be seen with the naked eye, are often behind them. Since these pests like dry and warm weather, they can be easily driven away by increasing the humidity.

Brown leaves and leaf spots

Even with leaves or leaf spots turning brown, the single leaf usually reacts to care errors:

brown leaf tips: a clear indication of excessively dry air, increase humidity
Brown, drying leaves: overwatering (waterlogging) or lack of water, repot or water the single leaf in fresh substrate
brown leaf spots or spots: overfertilization, repot the single leaf in fresh substrate
dark brown, ring-shaped leaf spots: leaf spot disease, cut off affected leaves

Green flowers

Some variants of the single leaf naturally form green-white or green bracts, so this is completely normal and you don't have to worry. If, on the other hand, the bracts of your variety are actually bright white instead of green, the plant is most likely too dark. In this case, moving to a lighter place helps, although you should of course avoid direct sunlight. Incidentally, the white flowers, which can be kept for weeks, turn green all by themselves after a while as they fade; this phenomenon is also completely normal and no reason for countermeasures.

Tips

As a rule, the single leaf stays healthier and thrives better if you keep the substrate relatively dry and spray the large leaves with water more frequently. In this way, not only do the ugly-looking brown leaf tips that occur frequently, but also the warmth and moisture-loving spider mites have no chance.

Species and varieties

The most commonly cultivated types of mono-leaf are:

Spathiphyllum floribundum: pearly white bract, yellow flower bulb, leaves up to 20 centimeters long
Spathiphyllum patinii: similar to S. floribundum, but with narrower and longer leaves
Spathiphyllum wallisii: green-white bract, short flower head, very tall species

In addition to the species mentioned, there are some interesting hybrid forms in culture:

'Gemini': variegated foliage
'Chopin': compact stature
'Sweet Paco': delicate vanilla scent
'Pearl Cupid': dark green, lanceolate leaves

Single sheet: Maintain properly

Origin and Distribution

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Appearance and stature

leaves