In general, plant fruit trees between November and March
Most fruit trees are grafted when they are just a few years old and transplanted with bare roots into your garden. This also applies to column fruit, which is not dissimilar to other types of fruit in terms of its location and maintenance requirements. Fruit trees generally tolerate transplanting best if it is done at a frost-free time during the winter months. At this time, the plants are in the so-called sap dormancy, but the root growth can also ensure solid roots in the new location during the winter. If the next spring then follows, the columnar fruit planted a few months earlier is already firmly rooted in the ground to invest all of its growth energy in the formation of leaves, branches and flowers.
also read
- Plant columnar fruit and enjoy fruit fresh from the tree
- The correct planting distance for columnar fruit
- Column fruit - what distance to keep to the neighbor?
Column fruit in a plant container
While bare-root columnar fruit should only be planted on frost-free winter days, specimens acquired in a plant container can be planted more or less all year round in the desired location in the garden. Midsummer should not be used as the planting time for container plants either, since the plants can be damaged by drought even if transplanted very quickly. While with bare-root plants a certain root pruning before winter planting can encourage growth, the ball of the earth around the roots of a container plant should be affected as little as possible during planting. The following factors should also be taken into account for planting and transplanting activities during the year:
- Do not select a heat and dry phase as the planting time
- water the plants more intensively in the first few weeks at the new location
- provide shade when transplanting with a parasol
- Dig the planting hole large enough and fill it with loose substrate
Tips
Column fruit cultivated in pots should be transplanted at least every five years. This should be done in autumn, if possible, so that the roots can still recover sufficiently before winter and so can cope with the more exposed temperature situation of a tub culture.
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