Cutting kiwi - types of cut and date
Kiwis thrive as left-winding creepers with an annual growth of up to 100 centimeters. Strategic upbringing on the trellis is just as essential for a rich harvest as cutting twice a year . Kiwi plants bloom and bear fruit on long shoots this year. Fruitful long shoots sprout from previous year's short shoots, which in turn are supported by a permanent framework. The following table summarizes the types of cut you should use to properly care for a kiwi:
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| Cut type | Goal / occasion | best date |
|---|---|---|
| Upbringing | optimal construction on the trellis | 1st and 2nd year in spring and summer |
| Summer cut | Improve harvest yield, promote fruit wood | from the 3rd year in summer |
| Spring cut | Thinning out old fruit wood, regulating growth | from the 4th year in spring |
Raising kiwifruit in an exemplary manner
Kiwi plants depend on a stable support structure. A wire trellis on the south wall of the house requires little effort. Stretch out three thick wires horizontally at intervals of 50 to 80 centimeters. You attach the bottom wire at a height of 80 centimeters. A wall distance of 7 to 8 centimeters has proven to be good. In the first two years, the pruning department is dedicated to a clear and productive upbringing. How to do it right:
Education first year
- In the spring after planting, select the strongest shoot as the main shoot
- Cut back the main shoot by a third or half just above an undamaged bud
- Cut off all remaining ground shoots (if any) at the base
- Tie side shoots growing from the main shoot horizontally to the trellis
In the first year you raise your kiwi with a framework of main shoots and side shoots, which you tie horizontally to the wires on both sides. Only cut back the scaffolding tendrils when they have reached the end of the trellis.
Second year education
In the second year the first side shoots form on the horizontal leading branches. These will produce fruiting long shoots from the third year onwards. Prune the first side shoots several times during the summer to a length of four to six leaves. The resulting sap jam makes a valuable contribution to the later branching with fruit wood.
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Horizontal scaffold shoots benefit from the law of growth
The law of upper side conveyance teaches us that fruit trees only produce valuable fruit wood when their shoots are in an oblique to horizontal orientation . The fruit wood on a kiwi is short-lived and is not part of the supporting structure. In order for it to grow, the main branches must be motivated to first sprout short shoots, from which the fruiting long shoots grow. As long as a shoot is straight upright, its juices strive to the tip bud, which is at the expense of the branching. By tying the lateral leading branches of the central shoot horizontally to the right and left, you create the basis for the growth of short shoots and their fruiting, this year's long shoots.Summer pruning optimizes crop yield
In the third year of standing, the pruning leads from upbringing to maintenance. At the beginning of the growth period, the first fruit shoots form, which carry the longed-for flower buds in the inner four or five leaf axils. The summer pruning is dedicated to the long fruit tendrils. Here's how to do it properly:
- Shorten long shoots to 4 leaves behind the last flower bud
- In the same summer, break out the branches from the interface by hand
- Cut back the extensions on the leading branches to 150 to 200 centimeters and tie them again
This year's young shoots that sprout along the horizontal scaffold branches are not cut in summer . These are new short shoots that will form the valuable, long fruit wood in the coming year.
Spring pruning promotes fruit wood
When pruning in spring, the focus is on worn, frozen and dead shoots. A courageous pruning ensures order and clears the way for fresh long shoots, which will bloom and bear fruit this year. How to do an exemplary spring pruning on your kiwi:
- Cut empty stems back to 5 cm short stumps
- Cut frozen twigs back into sound wood
- Cut off dead wood on astring
- Cut back last year's growth on the scaffold shoots and tie them up again
- Thin out branches that are growing too densely so that future fruit tendrils are not shaded in summer
- Do not cut previous short shoots
As the illustration below illustrates, do not completely cut off the abraded wood. The task of the short cones is to branch out of sleeping eyes and in this way to form new short shoots.
Digression
Achilles heel short shoots - protection against late frosts is the key
This year's fruit wood on a kiwi comes from the short shoots of the previous year. This makes the short shoots susceptible to late frosts in April and May. In an emergency, either no fruiting long shoots sprout at all or long shoots without flowers grow. All efforts to ensure professional pruning are then wasted - at least for this year's harvest. Keep an eye on the weather forecast. When meteorologists announce nighttime temperatures below freezing point, cover your kiwi plant with a fleece. This protects the valuable short shoots with the buds from frostbite.frequently asked Questions
Are kiwi plants self-fertile?
The majority of kiwi varieties thrive as dioecious plants. Specifically, this means that male or female flowers will form on separate plants. A female kiwi can only bear fruit if its flowers are fertilized by male pollen. Newer breeds are self-fertile, such as the well-known kiwi varieties 'Solo' or 'Jenny', because they have male and female flowers. The yield is of course significantly higher if another male plant is in close proximity.
Last year I planted a self-fruiting variety of kiwi that already bore fruit in the year of planting. With a diameter of 2.5 centimeters, the berries are very small. What can I do to make the fruits bigger?
For a kiwi plant to bear large fruit, it depends on a sunny, warm location and loose, airy, light-flooded growth. Prune the creeper in spring and summer to encourage wood growth. In addition, we recommend an organic nutrient supply with compost and horn shavings (€ 6.39 at Amazon *) in the bed or liquid berry fertilizer in the bucket from April to July. At the end of July, the administration of fertilizer ends with a potassium-accentuated autumn fertilizer, such as potassium magnesia or potash.
My kiwifruit has been in a less than ideal location for two years. Can I transplant the kiwi in October now?
Kiwi plants are native to Asia and cannot rely on the home advantage of Central European fruit trees. It is therefore advisable to wait until next spring before moving to another location. The plant is sufficiently rooted in its current location to survive the winter. You can then transplant the kiwi in March or April. Cutting back by half makes it easier to grow.
Can I grow a kiwi on the rose arch?
That is very possible. It is important to note a sunny, warm and sheltered location. Guide the tendrils along the rose arch and tie the growth regularly.
Our kiwi 'Jenny' is 5 years old and this year it bloomed profusely for the first time. Unfortunately the plant shed all flowers? Why is that?
The most common causes of flower shedding are late frost, drought and a lack of potassium. Provide your kiwi with special fertilizers whose NPK formulation indicates a high content of phosphorus and potassium, such as Terrasan organic berry fertilizer with NPK 7 + 8 + 12. Please ensure that the soil moisture is even. The earth dries out much faster in the bucket than in the bed. If meteorologists announce belated ground frosts in May, protect your kiwi with a fleece.
The 3 most common mistakes
Cutting back at the wrong time or doing without the upbringing throws your kiwi off the beaten track. After the juicy vitamin bombs, you will be on the lookout in vain for blatant failures in the care of the cut. The following table lists the three most common cutting errors, describes typical damage patterns and gives tips on prevention:
| Cutting errors | Damage | prevention |
|---|---|---|
| no parental cut | rampant growth, little horizontal fruit wood | educate on the trellis for the first two years |
| not cut back in summer | fruit tendrils breaking off, shadows cast on fruit | in summer shorten fruit shoots to 6 leaves behind the last kiwi |
| too much cut in spring | few long shoots, low fruit yield | thinning out in spring and cutting back worn fruit tendrils - nothing more |
Tips
Kiwi plants have an aversion to lime. It is not enough to pay attention to a slightly acidic pH value of bedding soil or substrate. If hard tap water is used for watering, lime builds up in the soil and the plant becomes sick. Use filtered rainwater or stale tap water primarily when watering your kiwi.
