Pipe binders: care and varieties

Pipe binders: care and varieties

origin

The pipewinder has the Latin name Aristolochia macrophylla. It is also known as the American pipewinder. This name indicates the original range of the plant. It grows in the mountain forests of North America and climbs altitudes of up to 1,300 meters. Their area extends from Pennsylvania to Georgia. It occurs west of Minnesota and Kansas.

also read

  • Tips for caring for the windlass
  • The right location for the windlass
  • Pipe bindweed is hardy and does not need winter protection

It was the American botanist John Bartram who discovered this plant. In 1761 he sent seeds of the pipewinder to his English colleague Peter Collinson, who was the first to grow pipewinder. After this event, the creeper became increasingly popular as an ornamental plant.

leaves

Pipe winds develop alternate leaves with a simple leaf blade. The foliage is dark green on the top and is reminiscent of a heart in shape. The underside of the leaf appears light green. The leaves have a four to six centimeter long stem. They can be seven to 34 inches long and ten to 35 inches wide.

The leaves lie on top of each other like roof tiles. This form of growth serves as protection against evaporation in the hot summer months, because the leaves prevent the soil from drying out. The leaves are developed in May and remain on the plant until November. The foliage on the older branches is larger than the fresh leaves of the first year.

blossom

The creepers develop solitary flowers that appear in the leaf axils. They are stalked and hermaphroditic. The flowers consist of three outer and three inner bracts. While the outer bracts are colored yellow-green, the inside appear brown. All six leaves are fused together. The shape of the blossom is reminiscent of the shape of a tobacco pipe.

The flowering period begins in late spring. Depending on the weather, the flowers appear in June or July. The inconspicuous flowers, from which fruits rarely develop, show up into summer.

growth

Aristolochia macrophylla grows as a left-winding liana. It grows between ten and 20 meters tall. Under Central European conditions, stature heights of twelve meters are typical. In the first few years after planting, the plant invests a lot of energy in root development. During this phase, the annual shoot growth is low. When the bindweed is well rooted, the growth spurts increase. Adult plants grow by two meters per year.

use

The creeper is used to green house walls, larger trees, pergolas and arbors or pavilions. She climbs up every support that is in her vicinity. These can be gutters or fixtures on windows. The plant is perfect as a privacy screen, because its dense foliage catches curious glances. On the climbing aids, the whistle winds also develop into a shade provider.

Velvet hydrangeas, Japanese aralia, climbing hydrangeas, ornamental mahonia or various types of bamboo are suitable as plant partners. The whistle winch harmonizes perfectly with rhododendron species and the trumpet tree.

Is the pipefish poisonous?

Aristolochia macrophylla is poisonous in all parts of the plant. It contains aristolochic acids, which are concentrated to varying degrees in leaves, roots, fruits and flowers. Animals should not eat the leaves, as the ingredients are carcinogenic.

Possible poisoning effects in humans:

  • Kidney damage
  • Nausea and vomiting
  • low blood pressure or rapid pulse

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Which location is suitable?

The pipe bindweed grows in a partially shaded to shady location. It prefers moist conditions in the substrate. The higher the moisture content in the soil, the sunnier the place of growth can be. If you plant the windlass in a sunny spot, the base of the plant should be in the shade. This will prevent the sun's rays from drying out the soil.

Pipe winds prefer a sheltered location, as their large leaves could be damaged in strong winds. Give the plant opportunities to spread. Trellises are ideal supports on which the plant can climb up.

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What soil does the plant need?

A well-drained soil ensures ideal growth conditions for the plant. A humus soil, in which numerous microorganisms occur, provides perfect properties. This soil life ensures a continuous loosening of the substrate, whereby the permeability is maintained. In particularly heavy and firm soils, mix some sand into the substrate before planting.

What is the best time to plant?

Plant pipe binders between mid-March and late April. Wait for the last late frosts as these could damage the tender roots. Before placing the plant in its future location, you should put the root ball in a bucket filled with water. Wait until it is soaked in water.

Dig a planting hole and ensure optimal permeability. Set up a climbing frame so that the pipe winds can develop magnificently. Place the root ball in the planting hole and fill in the gaps with the excavated material. Gently step on the substrate and water the plant penetratingly.

The correct planting distance

Adult whistle winds can reach a width of up to four meters. If you want to put several plants next to each other, you should pay attention to the propensity of the pipeworm to spread. Set the plants at a distance that corresponds to at least half of the size of the creeper you want later.

Pipe binders in the pot

Pipe winches are perfect for cultivation in the bucket. You will need a large and deep pot that is at least four inches high. As long as you ensure an optimal water supply, you can place the bucket in both sunny and shady places. In the pot, the whistle winch turns out to be a mobile privacy screen for seats, gardens and inner courtyards. Small-leaved species are better suited for use in the bucket because they require less water and do not suffer any damage even in windy locations.

balcony

Since the pipe winch also grows in the bucket, it is ideal for beautifying balconies. It also grows in the flower box (13.18 € at Amazon *) if this has been provided with a stable climbing aid. If the flower box is deep enough, the creepers get along well with the limited space. In this way, the plant provides shade and acts as a privacy screen.

Pipeworm multiply

Pipe binders seldom develop seeds because they do not bloom particularly profusely in their original range. They focus on vegetative reproduction. When your bindweed develops fruits, you can pick them and let them dry.

Use small pots that have been filled with potting soil. In spring, sprinkle the seeds on the substrate and lightly cover them with soil. To keep the humidity constant, you should put a transparent bag over the growing container. The seeds will soon begin to germinate in a bright and warm place on the windowsill, where the temperature is 25 degrees Celsius.

How to multiply whistle binders using sinkers:

  • strong shoots tend to the ground
  • Loosen the earth
  • Score the shoot crosswise and lay it on the loosened soil
  • Cover the branch lightly with soil and weigh it down with a stone
  • The tip of the shoot must not be covered

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Cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is more promising. Cut off 15 centimeter long shoots and remove the bottom leaves. Put half of the shoots in a planter with potting soil. Place the planter in a warm and bright place. Make sure that the soil remains constantly moist. It takes a few weeks for the cuttings to take root. Once the plant is rooted, it will develop new leaves. Transplanting is possible as soon as the windlass has well rooted the substrate.

Pouring the windlass

Pipe binders have a high demand for water because they reach great heights and develop an enormous mass of leaves. On particularly hot days, the climbing plant needs water several times a day. Water the plant thoroughly and make sure that no waterlogging forms. With potted plants, no excess water should remain in the saucer. Outdoor plants must be in loose and well drained soil.

Manure the windpipe properly

Aristolochia macrophylla does well without fertilization. It should only be fertilized if a growth spurt is desired or to support vitality. In this case, the pipefish gets a green plant fertilizer every two weeks between May and August. Alternatively, a supply of horn shavings (€ 6.39 at Amazon *) or compost is possible. Do not fertilize from September so that the shoots can mature. A supply of nutrients in autumn means that the plant continuously develops new shoots. These do not mature sufficiently by the onset of winter, so that they are at risk of frost.

Cut the windlass correctly

The climbing plants prove to be very pruning. Thinning out the plant every two to three years to counteract uncontrolled spread. If the plant gets too big, cut the shoots back to within ten centimeters. This maintenance measure stimulates the formation of fresh shoots and promotes branching.

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How do I transplant properly?

Avoid this measure with outdoor plants, as it inevitably leads to damage to the roots. It may be that the plant no longer grows well in the new location. If transplanting is necessary, prune any tendrils before digging. Cut off the root ball generously and dig out as many roots as possible. The new location should already be prepared so that the roots do not dry out completely.

Diseases

Although the pipe winds are considered robust, they are afflicted by diseases and pests under suboptimal site conditions. The sudden discoloration of the leaves from green to yellow indicates a fungal attack. Known as the Aristolochia mosaic, this disease causes the leaves to dry up and die off. The spores prefer to spread in damp weather. Cut off the affected shoots generously and make sure that the location is airy but not too windy.

If whole shoots suddenly dry out and die, Phytophthora root rot can be a possible cause. The roots start to rot when waterlogged, which means that fungal spores find an ideal breeding ground. The plant is no longer able to absorb sufficient water and nutrients.

Pests

If the humidity is too low, it can lead to spider mite infestation. The pests prefer to spread in hot and dry conditions in locations in front of south walls and suck the sap on the leaf veins with their mouthparts. You can recognize an infestation by fine cobwebs that pull over the leaf stalks and shoot tips.

If left untreated, the pest infestation leads to the leaves drying out. With a slight pest infestation, it is sufficient to remove the mites with a sharp jet of water. If the animals have spread a lot, you should cut off the affected leaves and shoots.

Pipe binders can be attacked by aphids. They feed on the sap and leave a sticky film on the leaves. These cripple over time until they finally die. The aphids, which can be seen with the naked eye, are sprayed off with a hard jet of water. A brew of nettle manure has a preventive effect against infestation.

Hardy

The climbing plant is considered hardy and therefore does not need protection from the cold. If you cultivate your pipe binders in a bucket, you should protect the planter from frost. Place the pot on an insulating surface. This can be a styrofoam sheet or a wooden pallet. Wrap bubble wrap around the bucket. Alternatively, you can protect the pot with a garden fleece or a jute sack (€ 6.86 at Amazon *). Use hay in particularly cold winter months, which you put in the jute sack or layer between the layers of film.

Make sure you have adequate watering even in winter, otherwise the plant can dry out. Only water the root ball on frost-free days so that the water can reach the roots and be absorbed by them.

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Tips

Set up the climbing aid vertically, as horizontally arranged struts only slightly improve the hold of the plant. The vertical struts should have a distance of 30 to 40 centimeters. Wires, tension cords or rods with a rough surface are ideal. Wooden lattices are also suitable if they are not too heavy and massive. Braid the shoots in horizontal strands so that the plant spreads out flat.

sorts

  • Aristolochia manshuriensis: pipe-shaped flowers, greenish on the outside and purple on the inside. Does not give off an unpleasant odor. Grows between six and eight feet tall. Winter hardy to -35 degrees Celsius.
  • Aristolochia clematitis: Suitable as a container plant. Flowers yellow, flowering time from May to June. Grows to 100 centimeters high.
  • Aristolochia tomentosa: Undemanding. Leaves smaller than Aristolochia macrophylla, oval, delicately hairy. Flowers yellowish-brown. Flowering time between May and June. Grows between three and seven meters tall.
  • Aristolochia moupiensi: Small leaves. Reaches heights of up to four meters.
  • Aristolochia elegans: Conditionally hardy. Flowers greenish to white, eight inches long. Leaves deep green.
  • Aristolochia tagala: Not hardy. Suitable for the winter garden. Leaves up to 25 centimeters long. Flowers reddish brown to purple in color.