Cutting the climbing hydrangea is not absolutely necessary

Cutting the climbing hydrangea is not absolutely necessary

Parental cut not necessary

A systematic education of the climbing hydrangea is not necessary. After planting, pin the long shoots to the wall so they can anchor. Young ground shoots that adhere to the wall often form immediately, which usually overtake any existing ones in growth.

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Growth of the climbing hydrangea

The climbing hydrangea builds up a strong, gnarled framework that does not age even after years. The flowers appear from easily recognizable, thick, tip buds of annual side shoots.

Adhesive roots can loosen

The adhesive roots of the climbing hydrangea are only viable for a few weeks and then lignify. Older shoots that have been loosened can therefore only connect to the climbing aid through new growth. It is best to redirect shoots loosened from the wall to lower-lying shoots that adhere to the wall. Remember that the remains of dead roots remain on the subsurface. Remove last year's inflorescences down to the first side shoot.

Rejuvenate climbing hydrangeas

Only the side shoots protruding from the wall carry the flowers. After a few years they get longer and longer, then redirect them to short shoots near the wall. Climbing hydrangeas are generally rejuvenated in the spring before they sprout - ie between mid-March and the beginning of April. In doing so, you only remove the overlong side shoots on short tenons on the scaffolding and leave its size. Alternatively, you can shorten the scaffold drives by half to two thirds. This measure strongly stimulates the growth, but the wall with the remnants of the adhering roots looks ugly at first.

Tips & Tricks

The clinging shoots of climbing hydrangeas can hardly anchor themselves on very smooth surfaces or on wall paints with an anti-algae additive and keep falling off.